| May 07, 2009
Naam Phon-la-mai Pun- Naam Taan Phan
A few steps from the Sala Daeng BTS station, the array of stalls and trolleys serving scrumptious dishes on Soi Convent make it a hard habit to kick.
The Staples
Sitting opposite the BNH Hospital is Yentafo Convent (Open Mon-Fri 7am-5pm, Sat-Sun 7am-3pm). Once past the matriarch and her steaming pot, you will find a spot that, despite its patchy appearance, cheesy white fence and fake vines, is filled with people lunching. Kick off your meal with crunchy fried taro spring rolls (B20-40)—take them with the sweet sauce and basil for a more flavorful version. They’ll also provide relief as you wait an age for your noodles. Still, the yentafo (B30) is worth it, with perfectly cooked noodles, bathed in a tasty soup. They aren’t stingy with the meat and the soup also includes jellyfish, fried phaen kiaow, pork balls, and tender blood curds.
Hidden among the trolleys, this nameless khao mok gai stall (outside Bua Restaurant, 08-6042-4645. Open Mon-Sat 11am-5pm) draws in a number of hunger-struck office workers at lunchtime. Their khao mok gai (rice with chicken cooked in yellow curry, B30) comes with a chicken drumstick, slices of cucumber and a smattering of fried chopped onions. The rice is aromatic and well-seasoned and the chicken tender. Despite its look, the accompanying sauce is not sweet but is actually sour and a good complement. They also serve a sour and spicy chicken soup (B30), with onions, tomatoes, chilis, chicken, and chopped cilantro which is a must-have and the perfect way to wash down the khao mok gai.
Standing across the street from Molly Malone’s is Hai Somtam Convent (02-631-0216. Open Mon-Sat 11am-9pm). This somtam shop is easy to spot thanks to the bright green uniforms of the servers. The inside is clean but don’t come here at noon unless you want a long wait for a table. As the name suggests, the shop serves various types of somtam (B30-45), and the always reliable Isaan staple—khao niaw gai yaang (B90). The somtam Thai (B30) is well-balanced. However, if you really want hot and spicy, tell the server. The sticky rice served in a bamboo kratib (B15) is perfectly cooked, not too hard or mushy. Also, don’t miss their grilled pork neck (B55). It comes with a complimentary hot and sour jim jaew sauce and is served in thick slices. It’s fatty but with a hint of sweetness and juiciness from the meat—sinfully delicious. End your meal with the rich and authentic coconut milk ice-cream (B20).
Rare Treats
Somewhat grungy on the outside, Tanghong Potchana (just a couple of steps from Hai Somtam Convent, 02-235-6362. Open daily 8am-6:30pm) is much more appealing inside, with an air-con second floor. Don’t expect a quiet meal as the servers shout out the orders but the palo goose (B120) makes it worth the din. It comes in a platter, along with blood curds and offal, all bathed in dark brown palo soup, which is fragrant with Chinese herbs and pepper. The goose, with its unique smell, is tender and juicy. You can eat it plain since it’s not too salty. The delicate soup with bamboo mushroom (B50) works well as a side dish.
Who would think that the rare and tempting traditional Thai sweet naam taan phan (hardened caramel) could be found in front of St. Joseph Convent? The tiny stall (Open daily, 7-10am, noon-3pm) is filled with sticks of hardened caramel monkeys, elephants, stars, and fishermen (B10). You can also ask the good-humored uncle manning the stall to shape the sweet into whatever you can think of. What sets this stall apart from other naam taan phan vendors is that the caramel is not too sweet. Also, you can get it as a balloon (B10), where the caramel is attached to the end of a straw and you can blow it into a bulb. However, be warned it’s much harder to eat than the elephant, so stick to the original unless you want sweet flakes all over your shirt.
Smooth Finish
With people swarming around the smoothie stall Naam Phon-la-mai Pun Rot Khem Khon Convent (opposite St. Joseph Convent School, 08-1564-9983. Open Mon-Fri 8am-5pm) is hard to miss. As there are a couple of stalls in the area, look for the one with a green giant umbrella and a cocoa trolley attached. The lady in charge squeezes oranges right there, so the orange smoothie (B15) is fresh and not too sweet. They will even seal the cup with a sealing machine for guaranteed freshness. The cocoa (B20) is rich and pleasant but the star of the show is the taro smoothie (B15). It may look like baby vomit, but it turns out to be a very pleasant experience.
