Somboon is a hugely successful, long-running franchise that has been in business since 1969 and now has four outlets around the city. But success does not necessarily mean it’s any good, and, at least in the case of the most famous branch on the corner of Suriyawongse and Narathiwat-Ratchanakarin, we can only think of one reason (maybe two) to visit. Though it has no parking lot, this huge establishment resembles one inside, with floor after floor of tables. Somboon Seafood makes the most of its ample space, cramming its tables as closely as possible, so you’re only inches away from your neighbors. The atmosphere might be compared to a demonstration, with incessant conversation on all sides, the clatter of plates and an army of staff parading around in bright yellow tees. If you’re not in the mood for seafood, the large menu also offers plenty of Chinese and even a few Thai options. (But really if you’re not in the mood for seafood you should fo somewhere else.) To give the appearance of freshness, there are large glass tanks in front of the restaurant exhibiting live seafood, from crabs to fish. However, as the famed restaurant is a favorite of Chinese and Japanese diners (including former PM Junichiro Koizumi), who are often picky when it comes to fish, we can’t help but expect a bit more. Hoy jor (deep-fried crab meat and pork balls) was OK as an appetizer to kick off the meal, but it wasn’t any different from what you can find elsewhere. As for our steamed whole sea bass in soy sauce, we applaud the sweetness and freshness of the fish but the execution was lamentable. Indeed, the sauce really was just soy sauce. We ordered goong ob woonsen (prawns baked with glass noodles) but got crab instead. The crab was tiny, with scarcely any meat inside, while the glass noodles were bland. The saving grace of Somboon Seafood is its famous yellow curry crab. Living up to the hype, the dish was so delicious we practically licked the plate clean. This crab was full of meat, and the sinfully rich curry was crying out to be poured over rice. In addition to the triumphant crab, the service also deserves high marks for efficiency. Though the staff aren’t exactly friendly, the food arrives amazingly fast even during peak hours. Cash only, which is strange for such a touristy place, but there’s an ATM across the street. Corkage B100.
