Aquatini

At this riverside restaurant, food plays second fiddle to the backdrop of the Chao Phraya River. However, while the mood is what keeps us coming back to Aquatini, the good news is that the cooking, though inconsistent, is actually not too bad. The décor is kept minimal with chunky tables loosely spread over the spacious deck, but the atmosphere is laid-back and casual, thanks to the breezy bossanova tunes and flickering candle light. The servers are friendly and well-meaning but have no clue about what’s on the menu. Not that you really need their help with recommendations as the menu reads like any other average Thai joint in the city. You’ll find yourself cornered with a long but uninteresting list of dishes that every kitchen looking to play it safe seems to think compulsory: tom yum, stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts, Caesar salad and spaghetti carbonara. The western offerings are a mixed bag. A good comfort food, the eggplant casserole arrives oozing with cheesy goodness and yummy tomato sauce, while the over-boiled penne with bacon in a dense mushroom cream sauce is a joke. It’s wise to stick to Thai fare. The restaurant attracts a good number of tourists and only a handful of local diners thanks to its location close to the heart of backpacker land. But fortunately, the Thai food isn’t geared to a farang palate. The portion of tom yum is generous, featuring a variety of mushrooms and plump prawns in a flavor-packed soup. Served in a whole coconut, the hormok talay maprao orn (steamed curried seafood) is loaded with fish, squid and shrimp. The plaa nuea makhua poh (spicy beef salad with crisp eggplant) and the steamed squid in spicy lime sauce are also safe bets. Setting some kitchen flops aside, Aquatini manages to impress thanks to its pleasant ambiance, generous portions and reasonable prices. All in all, one of the better riverside spots to enjoy leisurely, alfresco dining. Corkage B200.