Sitting at the corner of the monumental King Power Mall, this two-story shophouse feeds a crowd of local regulars in search of a good deal and some simplicity on and off the plate. You can tell by the name, the motto here could be “Nothing Fancy.” But if you look closely, everything is designed to make you feel at home: the discreet country house décor, a cool retro feel on the wood-planked second floor, the TV set tuned to CNN during breakfast, a thoughtful mix of Beatles-era hits in the evening, and daily newspapers on a table in the corner. The regulars are a mix of after-work professionals and the soi’s residents, which means a lot of Westerners. The bistro, in an attempt to offer something to every taste, boasts an eclectic menu of Thai and international favorites with a handful of Isaan dishes thrown in. For imbibers, two pages of the menu are dedicated to kaab klaem dishes from deep-fried sun-dried pork to garlicky deep-fried pork intestines. The farang fare includes run-of-the-mill salads and sandwiches plus a handful of intriguing recipes like beef stroganoff. Save for the moniker, the dish bears no resemblance to the classic Russian specialty as it is executed priew waan-style (stir-fried with sweet and sour sauce) and comes with a pile of garlic rice. Swedish meatballs are more pleasant, but not exactly exciting. Pastas are, unfortunately, best skipped as well. The kitchen fares much, much better with Thai dishes. Koong chae nampla features medium-sized raw shrimps topped with chunky slices of garlic and chili and served with spicy and sour dip. The recommended Pla Chon Mezzanine comes in an addictive combination of crisp deep-fried snakehead fish and tangy sauce flavorfully laden with herbs from chopped lemongrass and shallot to basils and dried chilies, complemented by heaps of roasted peanuts which provide a crunchy texture. Beware, Baan Bar doesn’t compromise on flavors—spicy dishes are fiery hot. Thankfully, booze, here, is cheap. Servers are young, friendly and diligent, as owner Joy often keeps a wary eye from behind the counter. Even on a crowded night, and despite regular visits, we can’t report significant mix-ups or delays. For a quick bite, followed or not by a leisurely drinking session, Baan Bar is a lively, tasty (if you order Thai food) and always affordable option.
