Before Baan Chamnong was renamed Baan Garagade and given a Thonglor khun nuu makeover—think flowery wallpaper, the obligatory black glass chandelier and lots of beige—it was borderline grungy. “A bit more effort style-wise would just bring prices up; we like Chamnong as it is—authentic, affordable, delicious and welcoming,” we wrote in 2008. How prophetic. Unfortunately, while prices did go up (and don’t include tax), we’re not sure the style effort really paid off. This is not Thonglor, and the groups (typical tables here are of six diners, sometimes many more) who continue to patronize what they probably still call Baan Chamnong almost look out of place in the (as of now) pristine décor. Throw in some poor acoustics and the atmosphere is more conducive to treating your family to big plates of seafood favorites than a romantic tête-a-tête. Have we written Baan Garagade off for its misplaced gentrification? Definitely not. From the addictive pla muk dad diew (cut in strips and fried till perfectly golden, this squid is the steak fries of the sea) to a simple tom yam with gai baan, Baan Garagade excels at making the simplest dishes great. (Good job too as the menu itself is fairly boring.) Overall, flavors are very Bangkokian: suitably spicy and rather sweet, with some rare dishes, like moo pad ki mao (drunken-style pork), that can nevertheless be a bit dull. Mostly, the results are pretty addictive, though, such as the sea bass cooked in soy sauce, which comes with a generous heaping of fresh, thinly sliced vegetables, just enough slithers of chili to liven things up, flesh cooked just right and an addictive soup you’ll be spooning up even when the fish is gone. Or the steamed shrimps with curry and chili; they’re plump, not overcooked and slathered in a sauce to die for. Order the good stuff and prices quickly shoot up, though—B400 for one big river prawn anyone? We’re bummed about paying more for a décor we don’t particularly like, but with service (glasses stay empty for about five seconds) and food this consistent, Baan Garagade will remain a firm favorite with families even when its newfound gloss has started to fade. No Corkage.
