Crudely translated as the house of tree logs, Baan Ton Soong is all about “nature.” (The owner of the giant compound also runs the neighboring school, Tridhaksa, which eschews academic study in favor of an at-one-with-nature mindset.)
Cave-like entrances, fake boulders, multiple waterfalls, streams and mini-lakes surrounding the area while dry ice machines pump out “atmospheric” mis. The aesthetic is certainly imaginative but misses natural and ends up kitschy. The giant pink dinosaur in the children’s playground is definitely the icing on the cake. Any redeeming features, like the hanging lanterns and giant trees are lost in this run-amuck theme park.
Fortunately, the restaurant does atone with its flawless service which begins as soon as you arrive. An army of staff, from parking attendants to waiters, are primed and ready to serve. Their recommendations are also sound, with the star being the simple fried rice with crab meat with the right balance of oily moisture and structure, aromatic rice and sweet crab meat. The spicy wing-bean salad isn’t actually that spicy, but richly flavored with a sweet and nutty taste (the secret is the little pieces of fried onion). The fried snake-head fish with spicy mango and herb salad also has a rich, sweet essence thanks to its sauce. Sweetness also makes a slight appearance with the tom yum ruam mitr, but fortunately there is no dearth of spice.
Indeed, the only issue we had on a recent visit was their selection of river prawns. Steamed with bean thread, and even with aromatic noodles, the prawns were downright bland. When it comes to their report card, we definitely give them a D- for décor, but an A for attitude and a solid B for the food, making it worth a visit. Corkage B50.
