Bacco–Osteria da Sergio

If it isn’t obvious from the name of “his” restaurant that this Sergio chap has a lot of confidence, it’s certainly clear from the scale of this enterprise: there’s the semi-enclosed smoking area, which alone is bigger than some other restaurants, not to mention a small army of cooks and servers and valets shuttling cars between Bacco and no less than three parking lots in the soi. But he has the right to be proud. Bacco is arguably Bangkok’s first real “osteria,” equivalent to an English “gastropub” or Japanese “izakaya” (“drinking restaurant”)—but an upscale version, where a nearly equal split of well-heeled Thais and expats (Europeans and Japanese, mostly) enjoy wine, conversation and tasty food in a lively Old World tavern atmosphere. Though the place itself is unpretentious, both the extensive wine list and the menu (over 300 dishes) can be intimidating. But among the staff are some real stars, who are quick to make useful suggestions. The wine service is similarly impressive—no embarrassing struggles opening bottles here. The menu is mostly comprised of “casual” dishes (salads, pasta, pizza, risotto) that are priced suprisingly low considering the high quality of the food. You might start with tuna tartare (or part of a mixed plate of appetizers), made with cubed fresh tuna and sweet pomelo pulp. Or try a beefy consommé with tortellini perked up with tiny diced carrots and zucchini. We also like the salads served in “piada” (thin bread) baskets, from a simple salad  to a posh mix of avocado and rock lobster. Perhaps our favorite reason to visit Bacco is for their “baked goods,” such as piada “sandwiches” (with Parma ham, stracchino cheese and rocket), stuffed cassoni (with spinach and cheese) and nearly perfect pizzas. We also love the homemade pastas. Even the slightly ridiculous sounding fazzoletti ripieni, a sheet of fresh pasta stuffed with mascarone cheese and ham but also, unusually, tagliolini (flat egg pasta) and tortellini, is delicious—strange, and funny, but delicious. Need more reasons to visit? Free wifi, and the kitchen is open late. Corkage: B400.