On most nights, you won’t find any Thais at Ban Chiang, a beautiful old house in a quiet street close to BTS Surasak. We get why, but we think it’s a shame. It’s hard to resist this charming wooden home. It’s been a restaurant for over twenty years but the building must be around a century-old and is decorated with royal memorabilia, clocks and the kind of vintage ads you can find at JJ—only these might be real. When it comes to mood, our only complaint would be the bad instrumentals of 70s hits. The waiters are polite without that over-the-top hotel attitude (they’ll address you in Thai) and their crisp little shirts and aprons are impeccable, bordering on Greyhound chic. So what’s turning off the locals? First, Ban Chiang isn’t cheap; for a Coke plus 7% tax. But it’s not outrageous considering this is a place that works for tourists bold enough to venture beyond Celadon or Sala Rim Naam. Another turn off might be the lack of spice. There isn’t a single crushed green pepper in the otherwise perfect tom ka gai. Despite a hint of red chili paste, the result is desperately boring. That might be a deal-breaker for some, but the food is so fresh and flavorful, we can deal with the toning down. The chicken in pandanus leaves, marinated in fragrant spices, is moist and tender inside, brown and sweet on the outside. The shrimp (unfortunately over-cooked) with asparagus and mushrooms is veggie perfection—full round taste, al dente crispiness, light sauce. The duck curry is actually moderately spicy and has perfect texture, creamy without being fat or floury. Same thing with the deep fried crab cakes served in their shell: loaded on crab and no flour. To cut down on the bill, we recommend the sets, which were probably designed to encourage tourists to eat a variety of dishes, Thai-style. (The sets are extremely generous; three can share the set for two.) How often do we hear, “What’s a good Thai restaurant to take my visiting friends?” Well, Ban Chiang is one place both you and your guests can enjoy. Corkage B300.
