When the first one popped up on Sukhumvit Soi 33, it was hailed as a godsend. Finally, a place for great, affordable pizza—the best in town, some claimed. But with three Basilico branches now open, we’re getting a bit blasé. The latest one, in Ari (where it replaces local favorite, Arancini), is definitely the last we’ll bother to review, as the brand slowly becomes an upscale pizza franchise
. Not that we’re faulting Basilico’s professionalism, but we could do with more inspiration. The decor combines classic elements (green checked tablecloths, rustic chairs) with some modern touches like the half-concave ceiling. Service is remarkable: they hover far enough away to preserve your privacy but then swoop in when you look up for them. As expected, this Basilico delivers spot-on thin crust pies, and there are over 50 different options, from a simple Napoli to a hearty capricciosa. Pasta is just as well-executed, with the lasagna looking and tasting very homemade—almost like reheated leftovers, and we mean that as a compliment. Often times, that’s all you need from an Italian restaurant: good pasta, good pizza. But at these prices, we’re hoping Basilico would go that extra mile, particularly with appetizers. The tomato with mozzarella salad comes with the usual caveat: a bland, watery vegetable that is a far cry from its Mediterranean cousin. Melons fare better in our climate and, with a slice of Parma ham, you’ve got a combination that just can’t be beat. It’s too bad dishes that require more preparation, like the shrimps in batter or the fried mushrooms and Italian sausage aren’t nearly as exciting—more greasy and bland. If you get the antipasti for two you’ll get these four starters, which is a disappointment: no sundried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, grilled peppers or eggplants, olives, speck or coppa. While we still recommend Basilico, it’s definitely in danger of getting lost in the crowd. Corkage B300.
