Boqueria

Named after the famous market in Barcelona, Boqueria is a paradox. They obviously aim high with their interesting, well-executed European dishes, excellent, attentive service and steep prices. So why on earth did they decide that a secluded corner of mini-mall/office block would be the ideal location? It doesn’t help that the interior, while suitably modern, can’t shake the soulless mall vibe (and that it’s a five-minute walk to use the public toilets). It’s a real shame as the food deserves a much better setting. We admit that going on a weekend doesn’t help, with surrounding offices closed, the whole place has a deserted feel. Still, we’re not sure that many office workers drop by to sample San Diele Parma ham with rock melon at B480 a pop, even if the ham is delicious and the melon huge. The signature La Boqueria Caesar salad is equally ample and the grilled Italian sausage salad, though a little heavy on the vinegar, is also a treat, thanks to the generous supply of spicy sausage and use of real Parmesan cheese. Even simple dishes like the salmon salad get a lift courtesy of the side dishes, such as homemade horseradish sauce. Indeed, two big plus points throughout are the use of authentic, quality ingredients and the size of the portions. Mains enjoy the same high standards, with gems like the wonderfully rich and creamy tagliatelle with porcini, Parma ham and Parmesan cheese and the feisty risotto with Italian sausage. Boqueria also does fish well with a highlight having to be the wonderfully moist and flaky black cod on a bed of summer vegetables. The coral grouper pan roasted with an ocean herb broth also shows the kitchen has a delicate touch. But, we return to the paradox, last time we visited we received complimentary soup and a palate cleansing sorbet for dessert. A nice touch, they spoilted by charging us for the water they’d constantly refilled our glasses with and yet never inquired if we wanted. At these prices, that just seems petty. Our tip: take advantage of the midweek lunch deals where B398 gets you a main course and buffet and savor some truly impressive cuisine. Corkage B500.