Though it’s seen god knows how many remodelings, stepping from the bustling street into this Silom landmark is to take a step back in time to grandfather’s days: dim lighting, green diner-style booths, dirty white table cloths, and slightly tatty brown wallpaper all add to the tired aesthetics of this half-century old venue. The textbook-like menu is divided into three sections: Western, Thai and Chinese, with pages highlighting recommended dishes. Don’t believe us? Ask the waitress for any specials and she’ll point straight to the pictures, like the dubious “Kobe” steak, a generous portion of tender but not Kobe tender beef served with a butter-filled baked potato and boiled vegetables, which really don’t taste of anything. The cream of onion soup is equally disappointing. Cubes of processed meat floating in a white, gooey liquid—reminiscent of a can of badly microwaved Campbell’s. However, things do pick up on the Asian side. We highly recommend the fried pepper garlic fish: fresh, white fish fillet with lots of garlic and pepper and thoroughly deep-fried in plenty of sufficiently hot oil. Seafood is definitely a Carlton strength; their raad naa pla tao see, with big chunks of fish, mushrooms and thinly sliced green peppers, also strikes the right chords. If you’re looking for something a little tangier, try their prawns in red wine sauce, deep fried crispy shrimps in a sweet and sour concoction. The one western dish that does hit the mark is the crepe Suzette. Order up a scoop of (straight from the tub) vanilla ice cream to go with the potent rum/orange/honey sauce. Dessert aside, if you do want to experience old school dining at Carlton, take our advice and skip the “Continental cuisine” and head straight for the Chinese.Corkage B100.
