Popular among young and hip media execs, the open-air restaurant packs them in, even on nights without half-naked models strutting around (no, it’s not a sleaze-ball place, it just hosted a couple of fashion shows). What’s the deal with this busy restaurant/bar/event outlet where the food is only average? We like the garden atmosphere, with its manicured trees and man-made pond; the white wooden deck not only offers a cool ambience with its multiple levels but also some decent live music. Obviously, the point is getting sloshed, so perhaps some minor missteps in its dishes can be overlooked. However, a Thai restaurant botching its tom yum is definitely cause for alarm, especially when it is one of the recommended dishes. The tom yum kung with young coconut came with a thick film of oil resting on the surface, which negated any decent taste the spicy soup might have had. When on a recent visit we inquired about the source of the oil, the promised young mapraw was MIA—and fishing for the creamy flesh produced no results, either. However, the eatery did redeem itself with other popular dishes including somtum with grilled pork, which comes with khanom jeen, balanced flavors and plenty of fresh veggies to help with the burn. The plaa krapong thawd naam plaa (deep fried sea bass with spicy mango salad) is crispy and aromatic. Another hit is their small sushi bar across the street, which serves a flavorful and tender salmon sushi with shrimp roe and the necessary Thai-style dollop of mayo. The eight decent-sized rolls served by a cute waiter, dressed in leg-baring Japanese garb, are satisfying in many ways. All in all, Chaleang owes its staying power as a cool hangout more to its deal for a bottle of Black than to its cuisine. If that’s the kind of “dinner” you’re after then, cheers! Corkage B200.
