In the heart of our very own mini-Singapore, where high-rises are constantly popping up, Colonial Bistro is set in a rare two-story house, where it serves a mix of Thai and Western food. The first floor is home to a vintage-themed café, while the second is dedicated to more elaborate dining with a romantic and slightly Victorian vibe. With the furniture and décor all in light purple and white, the place is certainly sweet and girly. At lunchtime, the workers from nearby offices drop in for Thai single dishes, but come dinnertime the most popular choices seem to be the Western options with Bangkokian touches—think cheese and deep-frying. It’s those touches that are the most disappointing (overly salty and rich), but some of their simpler fare can be comforting without being so overpowering. Apart from distinctly Thai mains like omelet with crabmeat (B150) and poo pad prik lueng (stir-fried crabmeat with garlic and chili, B320), we dig the Colonial red wine spaghetti with Serrano ham and bacon (B325). Served al dente, it has an impressive depth of flavor and a particularly pleasing red wine fragrance. The stir-fried mushroom with garlic and chili (B195) is similarly simple and flavorful; but the kitchen’s hand is not always so light. In a nod to the USA, they even do a Monte Cristo (fried ham and cheese sandwich, B185) which comes with strawberry jam and a pleasant peppery touch. It’s a nice, comforting dish without being particularly exciting (and they’re closed on Sundays if you’re thinking of having it for brunch). The salad with deep-fried soft shell crab, fried lotus root and wasabi dressing (B280) is even more pedestrian, held back as it is by the overly-powerful dressing and some slightly-too-salty crab. And the fried calamari with cheese (B165) is a real letdown: the portions are a bit soggy and, again, too salty. The batter is so thick and floury; it’s difficult to finish. But, despite this, Colonial Bistro is a lovely place to hide away and avoid the after-work traffic, with dishes that are affordable and tasty without being too remarkable. The service is also pleasant and it’s a real relief to find staff who really do know what they’re serving you. Corkage charge B500.
