The restaurant name, a playful combination of ‘cookery’ and ‘curry,’ reveals that the amiable, Thai owner-chef, an international school alumnus with many Indian friends and a flair for the kitchen, is pretty much doing his own thing. This is neither your Indian auntie’s house nor overwrought Indian restaurant fare. And that’s what we like about CooCurry. The menu, offering steaks and pastas as well as Indian-style biriyanis and curries, is not exactly cohesive, but we are charmed by the feeling of showing up to a quirky friend’s house for dinner. The ethnic-themed dining room, orange and yellow walls, dainty light fixtures and modest art all give the place a cozy vibe. The Indian side of the menu is certainly different from what you might expect—no naan, poppadum or green chutney—relying on quality meat and unusual spices rather than heavy-duty ghee and tomato paste. Although the gravy of the delicious mutton curry is more soupy than thick, it gives the dish a lightness one rarely finds in Indian restaurants. The accompanying roti is suitably greasy and soft and the rice is spiced with cloves, cardamom (conveniently removed prior to serving) and saffron, the last of these lending a wonderful aroma and color. The biriyani (or kao mok kai as it’s called by regulars) comes with either chicken or mutton and Thai-style condiments and sauces—all advisable as the dish, while yummy, can be a bit dry. We recommend dousing a roti or ten with the yellow Thai curry. The meaty salty-sweetness, paired with the grease, is a rare pleasure. The service is sweet though irregular. We take it as part of the place’s homey charm, but recommend sharing, or you’ll end up watching your buddies eat. There is also a reasonable tea/coffee/cake menu and free wifi, making it a popular daytime hangout for nearby office folk. But even those not from the neighborhood should know: CooCurry’s personal, affordable offerings are difficult to find elsewhere.
