Crescendo is split between an adorable patio on a quiet soi and a rather boring air-con dining room (lots of wood, wicker and cast iron chairs and reproductions of Western oil paintings). If you’ve been lured in by the big orange sign on Phetburi Road, you might be disappointed when you figure out that this is not a standalone place, but the outlet of hotel The Residence Rajtaevee. It also tends to be eerily empty of diners, apart from the occasional couple of hotel guests. In fact, that’s our main gripe. With such a cute setting and decent food, Crescendo should be a welcome haven in this restaurant-poor neighborhood, but it’s just too darn quiet. Even on a Friday night, its waiters look bored and depressed. “Can I leave the football on?” we were meekly asked on our last visit. In the dining room, it’s even worse: you’ll be greeted by the empty buffet trays for next morning’s breakfast (stick to alfresco). Otherwise, service is fast and dishes are reliable. Crispy squid, cashew nut and fish maw salad is light on cashew nuts but big on flavor and texture—the fish maw and squid were really crispy. The classic yam moon sen (glass noodles) with shrimp is up to standard: fresh noodles that don’t stick, lightly cooked shrimp, textbook seasoning. The steamed seabass in its addictive tangy lemon soup doesn’t come in a gimmicky fish-shaped hotpot which is just as well; it means it doesn’t get overcooked and you can enjoy the fish’s full, fresh flavor to the very last bite. There are also your usual “Western” suspects, like spaghetti with dried fish but judging by the definitely-not-homemade fried ice-cream in a pancake, you’re better off sticking with the affordable, tasty Thai fare. Definitely an “if you’re stuck in the neighborhood” kind of place, Crescendo might be a good option if you’ve got a party of rowdy friends who want a leafy courtyard all to themselves. If it’s just you and your date, we hope you both enjoy the football. No corkage.