For once, we’re not going to grumble about a restaurant being in a mall. Portico is small and open enough that D’Orsay feels like a standalone—and you’ll be surprised by the kind of views its modest third floor position commands. The food is well-executed, authentic bistro favorites—none of that fusion wine bistro nonsense. But forgetting Bangkok’s incredibly low bistro standards for a second, there’s still room to disappoint. Despite the maître d’s initial assurances, our mains were brought out before our appetizers on our last visit, and dropped in the middle of the table, Thai-style. (The maître d’ did take them back when we complained.) As for the food, it’s all pretty basic stuff. So while the lamb stew comes with tender meat and rich, flavorful sauce, we can’t really say we’re excited about the boiled carrots and potatoes on the side—or the lamb’s near gaminess. And when dishes get more basic, subpar ingredients can be even more glaring: the tomato tart (B205), for example, has a decent puff pastry but its tomatoes and tapenade have close to no taste. Another bistro classic, the mussels in Pernod (an anise liquor), garlic, butter and parsley sauce (B890) are thankfully a lot more tasty, with plump, fresh mussels. The slow-cooked duck confit (B425) is another standard that they churn out competently, ably supported by a salad with delicious jelly, despite pedestrian mash potatoes and ridiculously salty mustard sauce. As for dessert, the chocolate fondant (B275) is clearly homemade, given its fudge-like consistency, a welcome change from the identical frozen ones used so ubiquitously. The space is almost too sparsely decorated given its size, and the ridged tables and wood booth seating don’t exactly make one want to linger. That’s too bad, because D’Orsay’s wines do: a solid selection, the bulk of which are B900-1,050, including six wines by the glass (B195-225) delivered by one of those machines that prevent oxidization. D’Orsay may not be D’Sens, but its net prices are a whole lot cheaper, making the overall proposition a generally solid one. Corkage B500.
