Extra Virgin

To mangle an analogy, style is temporary while class is permanent. This beautiful converted home and former furniture store turned restaurant certainly has style in abundance but it just doesn’t have the complete package to make it truly classy. The white washed brick walls, cream sofas and beautiful antique furniture manage to give it a relaxed but extremely sophisticated atmosphere that, style-wise, is pretty unique for Bangkok, even for the heady neighborhood of Thonglor. (The friendly waiters, too, look the part in their stylish waistcoats.) But style is perhaps the problem, here: expectations soar, only to be brought back down to earth by good but not amazing food and mediocre service—courses arrive erratically and staff walk around distractedly. The menu consists of a small but diverse mix of starters, pastas and mains, but as this has no bearing on the order in which you get them, don’t pay too much attention. Also, don’t think starters mean bite size entrees; these portions are big. The beef taco is gargantuan, but thanks to a really light taco and good fresh ingredients is full of flavor without being greasy. The clam with butter, garlic and breadcrumbs is equally generous and the shells are smothered in a coating of breadcrumbs moistened by the butter—altogether a pleasing kick with the garlic and chili. The pastas are a mixed bag. The spaghetti with pesto sauce, while well cooked, and despite including some plump earthy mushrooms, ends up being a little bland. The spaghetti tarako (salted cod roe) with cream sauce is creamy and light but the portion is almost too generous. The mains are also a little plain: the coq au vin is well executed but uninspiring. Desserts are simple, too—the banoffee pie is sweet and not too cloying. But if you like sweet, then make sure you take advantage of the extensive cocktail list to go with your meal. As a place to hang out, enjoy some drinks and chat with friends, Extra Virgin is an extremely pleasant experience, just don’t expect the food and service to live up to the high standards their interior decorator has set. Corkage B300.