Formerly named Sambucca, Il Bolognese Trattoria e Pizzeria has traded in Enoteca’s management for some new (but still Italian) faces. Many things remain otherwise unchanged. The space, a comfortable house in a leafy soi, is that ideal middle ground between bourgeois and casual, with its prominent pizza oven, large greenhouse, and more refined dining room
to the side. The food, too, remains well-executed Italian favorites. With professional (although slightly jaded) staff and the kind of Italian manager who checks on every table, the place is particularly a hit with families. The kids can have their pizzas and pastas; the parents some antipasti followed by carne. The pizzas’ crust is a bit soft, a tad floury, but there are enough smoky wood-fired notes and generous, quality toppings to make these pies pretty darn good. The gorgonzola and speck (B440), for instance, is a terrific combination. The pasta tends to be a bit mushy, too, lacking that chewy homemade quality (despite the menu claiming otherwise). But maybe not too al dente is how the kids like it. Just like with the pizzas, the ingredients somewhat make up for this quibble, particularly with the toothsome foie gras and truffle oil ravioli (B490). (In comparison, the signature tortellini’s meat filling [B350] is a bit bland and dry.) We love the texture of the risotto, though, and the seafood variation (B410) has the potent iodine flavors of a homemade fish stock, almost like rice cooked in a bouillabaisse—a fantastic dish overall. We’re not so thrilled with the cold cuts (B650 for a large plate) and meats. Despite some decent cured ham and speck, their seared, crudely sliced carpaccio (B380) just doesn’t live up to the real (and raw) deal. Nor does the pork scallop topped with Parma ham and cheese (B560), although comforting, thrill the palate. Overall dishes here vary from quite good to really good, and that’s actually perfect for a neighborhood restaurant. Customers, who seem to be mostly regulars, can stick to what they like best, while enjoying a polished atmosphere and fair prices. Corkage B390.
