Il Tartufo

In many ways it seems like Il Tartufo has been around forever, but it’s actually only been nestled at the end of Soi 51 in its charming house for less than three years. Indeed, it was only last year that they opened the delightful garden area, with its slick sofas and almost contemporary LA vibe. But then there’s actually quite a lot that’s both surprising and contemporary about Il Tartufo, helping lift it above the myriad run-of-the-mill trattorias in Bangkok. For a start, it has a light and breezy atmosphere, whether you’re in the verdant garden or the bright and airy interior with its stonework floors and vibrant yellow walls, a mood helped by the warm staff and super friendly captain. But it’s the menu that is perhaps the most welcome surprise. Sure, there is a very traditional, very classic Italian spine, but there are also plenty of less obvious dishes to spark the interest, particularly dishes using the signature truffle base, like the tortellini tartufo, wonderfully al dente rings of homemade pasta stuffed with parma ham and doused in a rich, creamy but never overpowering truffle cream sauce. But it’s not just the truffles that impress. It’s the generally high standards of all the imported ingredients and how they are used. The lamb chops with a rosemary and garlic sauce are huge yet melt like butter, the Australian strip loin is pleasantly fatty and the aged parma ham served with melon is delicately smoky and salty. Seafood, too, is well presented and of the highest quality: the cod fillet with sundried tomato and shitake is meaty and moist and perfectly complemented by the earthy mushrooms. Yet it’s not all an Italian festa. Some dishes don’t work, like the special, homemade pasta with crab meat and rocket in white wine sauce which ends up just being slightly too acidic, while sides like the sautéed potatoes and spinach with the lamb chops are a little dull in comparison. We’re splitting hairs but these details make the difference between a truly great restaurant and just a very, very good one. As it is, Il Tartufo probably just settles into the latter camp, a very good, bright and homely neighborhood trattoria with a menu that will ensure you keep coming back for more.