India Today

Despite the mixed reviews and general lack of buzz, we think that India Today is actually a perfectly nice, if not-particularly-cheap, restaurant that just happens to be languishing in the wrong location. On the corner of Sukhumvit Road and soi 8, the crowds tend to be comprised of beer-loving tourists and their much-younger companions—not the type of folks to scale three floors to discover this quiet, red-couched dining room­, especially when an appetizer like the soft and well-marinated paneer tikka is B245. It’s not as expensive as, say, Rang Mahal, but it’s pretty pricey in a neighborhood where cheap kebabs and McDonald’s reign supreme. As a result, we end up talking in hushed whispers when we dine here, feeling horribly self-conscious about being one of two or three occupied tables, even on a Saturday night. That being said, the food at India Today (curiously named after the news magazine) is pretty good. Their specialty is the dum ki nalli, a rich and gingery curry involving enormous and tender lamb shanks that can easily be shared by four people. Get some laccha parathas to go with. Made from whole wheat flour, they are soft and crispy at the same time. Balance all that meat with the delicious bhindi do pyaza, made with chopped okra and (rather too plentiful) onions. The papri chat is a disappointment, however. It lacks a decent amount of the requisite diced potatoes and suffers from an imbalance between the yogurt and the tamarind sauce, making it too sour. Be sure to wash down your meal with one of their lassi, made with fresh buttermilk and a splash of rose essence, or a digestive masala chai. The service is friendly and efficient, with the maitre d’ taking the time to carve the lamb himself at the table—though one wonders if such attention would still be forthcoming if he had more people to serve. Which brings us back to the biggest drawback of India Today: despite the good food and service, the disastrous ambience makes for an uncomfortable meal. That can be easily remedied, though: come with a handful of friends, stop by the modest booze lounge on the second floor first, so you’re ready to make plenty of noise by the time you reach the dining room. Corkage B300.