This streetside somtam parlor is not exactly the Somtam Nua type, but what Jae Koy lacks in style and ambiance, it more than makes up for it with what’s on the plate. The decor of Jae Koy, which occupies three boxy shophouses by Petchaburi, could hardly be less inspired: harsh fluorescent lighting, tightly spaced stainless steel tables and brown tiled floor. However, the dining area is cleaner than your average no-frills spot and plenty of hungry diners—a mix of university students and office workers—are willing to endure the humid weather and trade comfort for affordable, deliciously fiery Isaan fare. The menu offers more than you would expect from a somtam parlor, featuring a panoply of big-portioned plates of grub. There are also seafood dishes on offer such as grilled prawns and steamed squid in lime sauce. But what Jae Koy does best is seemingly ordinary, yet tasty, recipes. For one, the kitchen excels in grilling. Entrails, liver, tongue, heart—you name it, Jae Koy can grill them all. Less adventurous diners can stick to koh muu yang, juicy grilled slices of pork neck. If you have a sensitive palate, be warned. In many of Jae Koy’s dishes, the heat is gripping. Take Jae Koy’s somtam: the papaya salad might have sweet overtones at first, but gets a little hotter with every spoonful—and as the heat builds up in your mouth, flavors unfold. Also worth a try is the yum pla duk foo. Deep-fried to a golden brown, the crisp minced catfish contrasts nicely with the tanginess of an accompanying mango salad. A milder, but no less delicious, choice is the house jim joom (Isaan hot pot), a generous plate of mixed seafood and veggies to be dipped and swished in a bubbling herbal broth. If you like larb (minced meat salad with mint leaves and grounded toast rice), you are safer with the pork or chicken version than larb ped, as the duck too often arrives overcooked. Most of the servers are clad in dek wan outfits (super-skinny jeans, checkered shirts and emo hairstyle), but they are surprisingly friendly and effective as they can correctly remember your orders and deliver the food quickly. All in all, a good option if you’ve completed Isaan food 101 at the somtam shops in the shopping malls and are ready for the real thing. Parking is available nearby in the lot of a defunct insurance company.
