If you’re seeking refuge from the showy, upscale restaurants in Thonglor, Jan Jaow is a place of peace. This shophouse-wide eatery is outfitted with feminine touches: hand-painted apricot walls, intimate lighting and smooth pop music. With its floral motif and cuddly pastel pillows, the décor of the mezzanine floor is even more girly, if not saccharine. It would make even the most macho of men feel emasculated, but their khun nuu girlfriends will definitely shriek with delight. Adding to the warmth are attentive and friendly servers, who allow you to linger all night. Good news for us, contrary to the sweet setting, the food is spicy and pungent. The menu is modest, but it has something for everyone. Pub grub and cocktails are available for the imbibers, while vegetarians have some 10 meatless options to choose from. Resist the usual standards like deep-fried shrimp cakes and khao pad sapparod (fried rice served in a pineapple shell). We can’t recommend the Penang curry with shrimp-stuffed chicken wings, either. On a recent visit, the curry was reliably dense and luscious, but the shrimp filling was frail and insipid. But as long as the kitchen keeps things simple, it does very well, delivering a generous dose of freshness and flavors. So stick to straightforward savory recipes like juicy grilled pork neck with chopped garlic and chili and palo khai khem, which substitutes the normal boiled eggs with salted alternatives. Also worth a try is the tom kha khai jiaw pla salid, which is appropriately rich with coconut milk and loaded with omelet and crispy salted fish. Desserts are humdrum, with unexciting choices like a mixed fruit plate and ice cream. But thanks to its pocket-friendly prices, after a feast at Jan Jaow, you will still have money left to splurge on sweet sins elsewhere. Corkage B300.
