Dining here is a roller coaster ride. When we heard that this eatery was the latest outlet of the now defunct Jantanee on Silom Rd., we were glad because we miss its zesty Thai food. And when we saw the bright and clean space heaving with families, our expectations went up even higher. But as the eatery put on sleepy green music that worked wonders to kill our appetite, we began to take a nose-dive. The menu offers an extensive selection of Thai food, with southern specialties such as namprik goong sieb (chili paste with skewered shrimp) as the high point. When a restaurant, Jantanee in particular, marks its dishes with chili signs to indicate its spicyness level, don’t dismiss it. Marked with three chilies, the Phuket-style kaeng tai pla (southern curry with fish kidneys and mixed veggies) was so rich and fiery hot that it left our stomachs churning, but it was devilishly delicious. It’s better to order a shrimp omelet as a side dish to ease the heat. Also piquant was spicy salmon salad, which unfortunately turned out to be a non-event because of the bland fish. The rest of the menu didn’t venture far from the usual suspects, featuring dishes like deep-fried soft shell crabs, fried rice and even club sandwiches. Those hoping for a sweet ending might be disappointed as desserts, too, are inconsistent. While the banana fritters were as crisp and yummy as ever, we remembered Jantanee’s cakes being better than the syrupy chocolate cake and soggy tiramisu cake we were presented with. Service ranges from frequently absent-mined to attentive and cordial when the pretty owner is around. With more downs than ups, this Jantanee outlet is still far from perfect. But if you crave hot and spicy southern food, it’s a decent choice.
