Hidden away in the small mall No. 88, Johann Bistro claims to serve up European bistro-style dishes with a hint of Thai flavors. If those final few words set alarm bells ringing, they needn’t, because while co-owner Christian Kostner, an engineer-cum-chef, makes use of native herbs, the focus here is squarely on Italian and French classics (plus a lot of Australian beef). Not that this guarantees success, either. The low-ceilinged venue is refreshingly minimal, as far removed from fine dining as possible, with few decorative items, just leather chairs and a lively open kitchen. (A vintage-style meat slicer also features prominently.) The food, though similarly modest, doesn’t hit the right homey notes. In fact, Johann seems confused as to whether it’s really a bistro or something more proper. (Getting an amuse bouche, and sorbets between courses hints at more elevated aspirations than most bistros in Bangkok.) It’s not that the flavors are bad, just unremarkable, let down by some below-par preparation and odd plating. On our last visit, the beef tartare (B400) was a bland take on the dish: served with only thin (and quite suggestive) lines of seasoning, it was worryingly lukewarm and too chewy for our tastes. The considerably more tasty salad of poached tiger prawns and sweet mango (B300) suffers from its presentation, ending up as a few bits of lettuce in a pool of orange ginger dressing. Mains are similarly beset by bizarre inattention to detail and ill-considered sides: the pan-fried white sea bass (in white wine sauce, B500) is mushy, its truffle mash potato watery and the grilled aubergine and capsicum a little too rubbery. The braised wagyu beef cheeks marinated in cabernet sauvignon (B650) is extremely tender, but comes with a thin, unsatisfying carrot puree. Dessert is a different matter entirely, offering much more exciting flavors, like the summery basil panna cotta with strawberry compote (B180) and chocolate fondant with coffee ice cream (B220), rich with just the right amount of bitterness. But with brasserie service and prices, the food at Johann just doesn’t match the ambition—though the gourmet deli section is worth a browse for its selections of cheese, meats, chocolate and olive oil.Corkage B500 for wines and B1,000 for sparkling wines and Champagne.
