Why is that even on a Saturday night, this delicious, affordable Tokyo-style ramen and tsukemen restaurant is nearly deserted? Is it because of its location at the far end of CentralWorld’s Seven on Heaven? Or is it the decor? With ceilings this incredibly high, and soaring windows with curtains to match, K.O. Tenpan feels a bit like a long hallway. And then there’s the strange collection of art, from massive oil paintings of classic Noh theater characters to little manga-like prints. Neither grandiose (despite the chandeliers) nor cozy (despite the bar and scattered decor pieces), K.O. Tenpan’s interior architecture is clearly not helping. One thing is for sure: it’s not the food that’s scaring away diners. Cooking up big bowls of ramen noodles isn’t haute cuisine but K.O. Tenpan’s meaty, thick broths are really addictive (B180 for the K.O. Tenpan ramen) while produce, noodles included, are extremely fresh. This is particularly noticeable with the cold tsukemen (gomoku hiyashi chukka tsukemen, B260), where one dips plump noodles into an extremely natural tasting sesame sauce. Accompanied by slices of veggies, ham and omelette, it’s a colorful, filling and very umami dish. We’ve also had luck with all our side orders. The skewers (B80-170 or B220 for a set of five) are very lightly doused in soy sauce that is naturally sweet—unlike the saccharine gunk usually used in malls. Despite the light sauce, the meat isn’t dried out from the grilling, so we’re doubly impressed. Rice balls (onigiri, B60-70) are wonderfully fragrant and wrapped in quality seaweed. Even the green tea (B60) is as thick as a cup of cocoa—but no refills as this is the real stuff. One last thing, servers actually know the menu, so you can fully rely on them to help you order. K.O. Tenpan can clearly rival anything at Isetan, or even Soi Thaniya, so forgive their unfortunate decor and please give them a chance.
