Kaguya

Set on the corner of Thonglor Soi 10, Kaguya serves mainly contemporary Japanese cuisine, which draws in the hip young crowds who also come for the DJs and the satisfying cocktail list. The stylish décor is a bonus—a layered series of screens, made of bamboo strips and rods tied into narrow scaffolding, filter the light. Choose from bar seating under the glowing yellow cloud of light, the outdoor sofas, or the vividly colored dining room’s orange and sea green chairs.

The kitchen is run by Chef Kongwuth Chaiwongkachon, a Le Cordon Bleu graduate, who whips up star dishes that put the emphasis on fish. A plate of mixed sashimi (B3,200), spanning chutaro (fatty tuna), salmon, hokkigai (surf clam), kampachi (almaco jack), saba (mackerel) and ebi (shrimp), just about lives up to the price tag—nicely cut and very fresh.

The red mullet tempura (B320), too, comes fried to perfection and with black olive which really elevates the flavor. The ox tongue (B260) is equally well-executed—tender and almost silky, it’s prepared sous vide and is nicely garnished with salt and lime.

Here, as with many Japanese restaurants, the maki is a popular pick, but some are just a bit dull. The smoked duck roll (B400) puts too much emphasis on the sour notes—you can’t really taste the surf clam or foie gras, though the thinly sliced duck is very aromatic.

As for drinks, the cocktails are done right. Try the Gentleman’s Truth (Tanquery gin, violet herbal liqueur, citrus, oregano, B320) or opt for the craft beers which come from Mikkeller (B260).

You can see why Kaguya is a successful restaurant—well-managed, efficient service, a trendy vibe and good food. But we can’t help but feel that their talents could be spent on stimulating Bangkok’s food scene rather than sticking to the safe dishes which carry a pretty hefty price tag.