An Indian restaurant around Nana is often doomed by pitfalls that, to be fair, have little to do with the quality of the food or the level of service. The neighborhood is creepy, overrun with Viagra- and porno-selling street stalls, sweaty tourists who love to “accidentally” collide into your bosom and, of course, the countless, diner-style, campy Indian restaurants. In addition to the sordid context and the stiff competition, Khana Khazana has other potential handicaps: it is a vegetarian establishment, it serves no alcohol, and its enormous menu covers at least four regional Indian cuisines, including Indian-Chinese fusion (which is a legit, existing cuisine, mind you). Despite all these factors, Khana Khazana somehow manages to serve up prompt, hot, delicious food. Their menu says that serving time can be up to twenty minutes, but that means that they’re making their food to order, and it shows. On the South Indian front, their Mysore masala dosa (spicy rice crepe stuffed with potatoes) is slightly thicker than the brittle stuff we’re used to, but it retains its crispness, and is non-greasy and delicious. Among North Indian dishes, the chana masala (chick peas in thick onion-tomato gravy) is not too heavy or mushy and is decidedly exotic, thanks to spices like bay leaf and black cardamom. The paneer tikka (baked cottage cheese cubes) is soft and well-marinated, and the gobhi parantha (flatbread stuffed with cauliflower) is generous on the gingery stuffing and served piping hot. The Indian-Chinese vegetable noodles are flavorsome without being doused in sauce and have lots of cabbage and scallions that lend some crunch and brightness, despite the grease. Add to this well-intentioned and attentive (if a tad too much so) service—the waiters spoon your food onto your plate and never fail to bring out dish-appropriate condiments—and touches like delicious mocktails or the crushed pistachios in their perfect-consistency, sweet lassi and you have a restaurant that verges on greatness. “Almost” being the operative word, sadly. While Khana Khazana has a vast menu of delicious vegetarian options, wonderful service and affordable prices, we just cannot see ourselves regularly braving Sodom and Gomorrah to eat here.
