Thai. Thonglor Soi 17, 02-712-5665
Khao Jao is a wonderful surprise. Maybe not for its food, which is delicious but not ground-breaking, but at least for the family-style service, quirky décor and sleek architecture—all this on a dime, in the midst of hip n’ hi-so Thonglor. We’re guessing Khao Jao is part of someone’s home, as the simple grey modernist building extends above and behind the restaurant. With its distressed white parquet and plenty of bare cement, Khao Jao could have been a Greyhound-lookalike if it wasn’t for the shelves lined with small toys for sale, mostly of manga and comic book characters. The atmosphere also feels more laid-back: rough-hewn furniture, someone’s kid bringing out dishes on the weekend and young waitresses offering efficient but relaxed service. Let them point you to the house specialties, which tend to be Southern and hence fiery. That uncompromising heat might explain the Thai-only menu, a single-side laminated list and a dozen blackboard specials scribbled over the counter. (Customers are mostly Thai but a few expats do wander in.) Expect all the classics, and classic execution, such as with the crispy, pungent phad khana pla kaem (chinese broccoli with salted fish); sweet, soft khai yad sai (omelette stuffed with minced pork) to fight the spice; and the aforementioned hotties—a wonderfully aromatic khua kling (herbal, stir-fried minced pork) and a spicy gaeng luang (yellow curry) with velvety bamboo shoots. The Thai desserts are less remarkable, but do the trick when trying to douse the flames of the hotter dishes. Also, don’t try to get too fancy with your order: Pepsi only, no soda water. We told you this wasn’t Greyhound. But with a mood this convivial, a bill this small and food this real—even in Thonglor—who needs those hipsters? No corkage. Closed every third Sunday of the month.
