Kushi-Tei is an affordable and tasty izakaya, a tavern for those days when you feel as thirsty as you are hungry. With four branches in European cities, and the one here in Bangkok, Kushi-Tei of Tokyo’s pedigree is not as Nippon as its name implies. (The Thai branch is owned and operated exclusively by Thais.) But if the boisterous Japanese families that come here on weekend evenings don’t seem to care, neither should you. Kushi-Tei specializes in kushiyaki and yakitori (skewered meats and vegetables), and apart from a slight tendency to dry out the veggies, we’re pretty impressed by the quality of the ingredients (at these prices, just don’t expect Kobe) and tare sauces. Tare is a bit of a high wire act, balancing soy sauce, mirin, herbs, sake and sugar. Kushi-Tei pulls it off, serving different blends of sauces depending on whether the food being cooked is poultry, seafood, beef, pork or vegetables. The results are dependably light, flavorful and not too sweet. You’ll most probably opt for a set. At lunch, they’re particularly affordable, starting from under B200 and coming stacked with extras like rice, tofu, miso and condiments. We recommend the heartier Japanese Grill Special (beef short rib skewer, asparagus wrapped in bacon, quail eggs and plenty of extras)—the eggs are a bit rubbery but the beef is, thankfully, just the opposite. The all-day sets aren’t that much pricier and can be ordered with a choice of hot or cold soba noodles. The cold soba are just perfect: slightly firm and served chilled in a giant bowl of ice. The décor noticeably improves past sunset, when the dim lighting encourages you to explore Kushi-Tei’s other strength: an affordable menu of shochu and sake starting from B120-150 by the glass. With warm, friendly service and a reasonable bill at the end of your meal, you’re pretty much guaranteed a pleasant evening—just don’t come seeking gastronomical thrills. Corkage B300.
Kushi Tei of Tokyo
