With just a half-dozen mains and a dozen pasta dishes, Limoncello can focus on what it does best—stellar pizzas. But that still leaves out half the picture: the army of efficient waiters, the cozy postcard décor and the Italian captain navigating all the tables tirelessly and ever-smiling. And despite this joyful operation being an off-shoot of the famous Zanotti, prices have remained incredibly realistic. We don’t bow to Zanotti’s reign on Italian cuisine in Bangkok, and venturing off Limoncello’s pizza menu has landed us some boring dishes. But unlike Zanotti, Limoncello bills itself as a pizzeria. So even if the mushroom soup with beans is slightly gelatinous, who has soup before pizza? And although their pasta dishes, like the tagliatelle al limone gambaretti, are a change from the usual lineup, three dry, pedestrian shrimps atop a heap of noodles doused in orange juice don’t exactly qualify as haute cuisine in our books. But why even order it? It’s a pizzeria! And what pizzas: a couple of blisters on the surface, a darkened, brittle crust and an underside pockmarked with charcoal-burned spots. The selection is just as exciting. First, there are the white pizzas, like the glorious ai quattro fromaggi (mozzarella, scamorza, gorgonzola, parmesan). It’s decadently rich but not oily, with sharp, smoky flavors and soothing creaminess, the crust still crisp despite all this molten, almost liquid cheese sitting atop. Or try the simple, perfect combination of spinach and ricotta in the Popeye. On the tomato sauce side, you’ll find such authentic treats as the pizza alla Napoletana, which comes with a thicker, softer crust (the thin crust is Roman-style), or the aristocratic Zanotti with generous servings of mascarpone and Parma ham. So order some Chianti, some pizza, save room for the delicious panna cotta or just a cup of strawberries (they taste like strawberries, a rare experience in this town, from B160) and enjoy the kitsch experience of dining on checkered tablecloths under a vaulted ceiling painted with chubby cherubs.