Time takes its toll on the best of us, and after 25 years in the business, this Bangkok institution is starting to look and act its age. That’s not to say it’s rundown or that the impeccable service is anything less than super friendly and efficient, it isn’t. It’s just that when compared to the competition, L’Opera now seems a little kitsch and heavy on its feet. The décor certainly doesn’t help. Inside, the flagstone floors, brick walls and random bric-a-brac give the place a cluttered cave-like feel, while outside, in the conservatory, the fake vines and barred windows are just too theatrical. It simply screams 80s. Décor can be forgiven, but where L’Opera really shows its age is in the food. This is classic Italian in every sense, so think rich, thick sauces and heavy dishes that punish the waist line. The salads can be slightly unpredictable, the insalata capricciosa di granchio, features good meaty chunks of crab but has just four small scoops of avocado and is far too vinegary. The soups also suffer from over-flavoring; the green asparagus with crispy bacon is hearty but becomes too salty after the first few spoonfuls. L’Opera does feature an intriguing choice of pastas, but the rich ragout sauce of wild boar and bacon topped with pecorino cheese in the tagliatelle alla maremmana we had last time, while flavorful, was so rich we couldn’t finish it. The same can be said for the classic ossobuco di vitello. The veal shanks are beautifully cooked but the bed of saffron risotto is too moist and sweet, making the whole dish stodgy. It’s an adjective that can also be leveled at the desserts. The custardy white chocolate soufflé and the average crème brulée just seem so stolid and old fashioned. For those with deep pockets who want traditional Italian with a capital T, then L’Opera foots the bill. If you want something a little more original and affordable then there are plenty of better options. Corkage charge B350.
