If you live on Sukhumvit Soi 23 and are looking for an evening that doesn’t involve clubbing, fending off bar girls or eating fish and chips, then Madame T could be the place for you. This second branch of the friendly Vietnamese restaurant from across the Chao Phraya, with its limited but fresh array of Vietnamese dishes and prompt, unobtrusive service, is a welcome addition in a condo heavy neighborhood. The comfort of the colorful and relaxed dining room also makes a change from the slightly fussier La Dalat up the road. As soon as you are seated, the staff will present you with the customary bowl of fresh greenery, along with a little dish of pickled sweet and sour veggies. The menu is small and easy to manage with helpful pictures and descriptions. Appetizers include classics like bahn cuon (fresh spring rolls with prawns and herbs made more complex thanks to the accompanying peanut dipping sauce spiked heavily with an orange chili. A variation on the bahn cuon, steamed rice flour rolls with mushrooms, minced pork and fried shallots, is a wonderful mixture of textures: the soft sliminess of the rolls, the crunch of the shallots and the chewiness of the slivers of Vietnamese sausage on top. The bo la lot (pork grilled in betel leaves) are small, but extremely juicy, with the grilled leaves adding a nice crunch. Do not skip the tiny pieces of lime, which add a pleasant tartness to the whole experi. As for mains, we’re impressed by the expert marination and execution of the grilled pork spare ribs marinated with lemongrass sauce. The ribs are large, have naem-like fermented flavors and burst in your mouth with pork and lemongrass imbued juice. Sadly, there are some misfires, like the stir-fried tofu on top of crispy noodles, which might be a huge portion, but is over-sauced and over-sweet. We’re willing to overlook that, however, because the place is just so cute, and after a long weekend of partying and drinking, eating at Madame T makes you feel healthy and warm inside.
