Masala Art

Masala means mix of spices, and, ultimately we have mixed views about Masala Art. There are some real stand outs, the service and the tandoor dishes for example, and overall the standards never drop below decent. The trouble really comes when you consider the price—this place is expensive. As a result, we feel entitled to expect a little more. For starters, the venue itself is a little soulless. Situated at the bottom of the yet to be finished Eight Thonglor residence and next to the usually empty Xperience nightclub, the bright interiors are warm but can’t quite shake the hotel lobby vibe, an atmosphere not helped by the over loud music. On the plus side, you really can’t fault the service, which is excellent and extremely attentive. If you’re lucky, and it’s a quiet night, then you’ll get the Indian head chef (formerly of the InterContinental and Hyatt in Delhi) to guide you through the menu and make generally excellent recommendations. The menu itself is broken down by art related references, so light bites, like the samosa keema (with lamb)—slightly dry despite the accompanying sweet sauce—become Soft Hues. But it’s First Impressions, covering tandoor dishes and appetizers, that is really the restaurant’s strong point. The barra kebab, is a highlight, delicious tender lamb that’s packed with an aromatic blend of spices. The rogani chicken tikka is also full of flavor and the meat is incredibly juicy. Unfortunately, these highlights can’t be matched by the curry dishes, which tend to be slightly pedestrian. The paneer makhani, soft cottage cheese cooked in a rich tomato based gravy verges too far towards sweet. Likewise, the north Indian staple, the rich dahl makhani, made from black lentils cooked overnight, while rich, is a little bland. We admit these are minor gripes, but they’re valid when even a solid rice biryani with plump prawns will set you back. If money isn’t an issue then Masala Art is worth a visit for the warm welcome, good quality ingredients and quality service— we’re just not sure we would come back again and again. Corkage B300.