In stark contrast to the blond wood and bright lights of most Japanese restaurants, Michi is a cool, dark cave. Its faux-rock entrance next to an aging Seefah is easy to overlook; behind the door is a cozy grotto with charcoal walls and ceiling, stone accents, polished concrete floors, a row of salmon-colored curtained booths and semi-private alcoves featuring low freeform tables made from cross-cut sections of logs. The freeform sushi bar that wraps around the open kitchen is similarly crosscut and stained, and surrounded by huge salmon-colored chairs. Michi is cool in other ways: the owner also runs wine bar Bacchus, so the music is classic jazz; there is a small selection of wines by the bottle; and the drink list includes some creative “Michi original” shochu cocktails, like the Samurai Martini spiked with lime and wasabi. Earlier in the week it’s fairly quiet and you’re almost guaranteed to get a table without a reservation, but Friday nights are busy and buzzing with Japanese salarymen and the occasional in-the-know Thai. A warning, would-be cavemen: if you’re hungry and don’t have a company credit card, Michi isn’t the place for you. Portions are small and you’ll find it a challenge to fill your stomach for less than B1,000. As in many other higher-end Japanese restaurants, whether you want to or not, you begin with otoshi (a.k.a. tsukidashi—mandatory “appetizers”), but we do appreciate the warning on the menu of the automatic surcharge for the three nibbles in separate dishes—usually a cube of cheese-like tofu, some sort of meat “cake” and a slice of omelet. As you’d expect from the decor, the menu here isn’t strictly traditional; there are also salads made with rocket and the sushi rolls tend to be on the modern side. For example, a “chef’s choice” ebi (shrimp) tempura roll we tried was terrific: two plump prawns divided among eight small rolls topped with peaks of crispy tempura flakes and crunchy tobiko (flying fish roe). The house specialty is yougan yaki—meats cooked on a lava stone grill, ranging in price from B220 to B2,400 (for Wagyu ribs); in the middle you’ll find juicy tenderloin or delicious gindara (cod) marinated in Saikyo miso. In addition to a la carte, there are four sets on the menu, two sushi and two yougan yaki. We’ve done it both ways and have had better luck with a la carte. The sushi was excellent and the sashimi and “basket” of tempura (served with powdered salt instead of the usual sweet dipping sauce) very good; however, our broiled fish was overcooked and not particularly interesting. So the food alone doesn’t justify these prices. But you’re also paying for the unique atmosphere, friendly and attentive service, beautiful presentation of dishes (on an assortment of colorful handmade plateware) and the fact that you’re in high-rent Thaniya. Cool, after all, doesn’t come cheap.
