If we docked stars for criminal locations, we’d dock several here. Designing a stylish dark wood and wicker eatery with edgy graphic art on the menu and then placing said eatery in the middle of the circus that is the fifth floor of Emporium, in plain view of Daddy Dough, is a sin. On the other hand, you could argue that the hustle and bustle adds to the deli feel. But this is not a down-home American deli; this is the sort of deli you’d find in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, where classic Americana is given a hipster twist. Here you’ll find quintessential Midwestern classics like roast beef and honey-glazed ham sandwiches (alongside a few pastas and Franco-American eats, like variations on croque monsieurs). And amazingly, despite the muted flavors inherent in these dishes, they are rendered here very well without compromising their integrity. Take the peek-a-boo meatloaf sandwich (B220): a fluffy ciabatta-like bread with a light, meaty, yet not-too-dense meatloaf and a bit of oomph lent by a bacon crust and a few slices of pickles. We adore their little trick of slipping in some sliced boiled egg in the middle of the loaf slice, completing the sandwich’s textural delights. Their Swedish meatballs (B150, B220 with pasta or as a sandwich) walk the line between ping pong and golf balls in terms of density and are very lightly spiced (not even any onion), letting the wonderful meatiness take center stage, enhanced only by a few shavings of Parmesan (a no-no perhaps in Sweden, but a yes-yes in the US). The gravy, too, is light, and paired with simple yet lovely sides like the not-too-creamy mashed potatoes, they are a hearty meal without being a heart attack on a plate. The red velvet cake (B160), too, is a triumph of balance, with sour buttercream and a slightly crumbly but robust cake. The way-way overdressed salads are a surprising disappointment, but (location aside), there’s little else wrong with Minibar Deli, especially when you consider the affordable lunch sets (from B280).
