We’d be forgiven for thinking that the USA’s answer to real Italian pizza is Pizza Hut. But in fact there are more delicious interpretations of this ubiquitous Italian export, and “New York”-style is perhaps the best-known of these. NYSP is a “chain” with outlets in several US states, four in China and now two in Bangkok. The first is on Thong Lor, an air-conditioned shophouse-wide venue that is, with its billboard-size NY-themed photos and seating that includes upholstered end chairs and a long banquette, much too nice to be a pizza delivery shop but not quite as stylish as one of the area’s trendy cafes. Delivery pizza can be acceptable—like many things, a well-made pizza tastes good even cold. But to taste these pizzas at their best, we suggest that you eat in. Usually there will be three or four pre-cooked pies available by the slice in the display case. Slices are (re-) heated to order. Our first taste of NYSP was at the newer Nana shop (between Sukhumvit sois 3 and 5). We were impressed with the pizza but not the preparation: either it didn’t spend sufficient time in the oven or the oven wasn’t hot enough. The result was a warm slice with a soggy crust in the middle—no chance of folding it in half and eating it with your hands, as tradition dictates. On a recent visit to the Thong Lor branch, however, there were no such problems. Would they buy it in Brooklyn? The dough could be improved a bit; though obviously homemade, it needs a bit more natural complexity. But the texture is right: crisp on the outside, chewy on the inside. We might also lobby for slightly more zing in the sauce, but overall they can be proud of this pizza. Whole pies are huge—think American sizes, not Italian. We give high marks to the basic cheese (Macy Jean) and Hell’s Kitchen (topped with pepperoni, sausage, onions, green peppers, mushrooms, black olives); the Brooklyn (pepperoni, jalapeno peppers, garlic) is also not bad, but... note to pizza maker: don’t be so stingy with the peppers—this is Bangkok. In addition to 15 designer pies, there is a long list of toppings to create your own pizza or calzone (folded pizza), sandwiches, and a handful of appetizers. The garden salad at first glance appears more impressive than it is, seemingly made with crisp red oak leaves served with three excellent homemade dressings on the side. Unfortunately the oak leaves are only the top layer of an otherwise mediocre cabbage and carrot salad accompanied by a stack of tomato slices that were cut for pizzas. Note to salad maker: there’s more than one way to cut a tomato. The chicken wings are on the fatty side and could have used a more liberal seasoning but are elevated with a sweet marinara sauce. But the side dishes are just distractions, really. It’s the pizzas here that matter—and these are the best of their kind in Thailand.
