Set amid idling vans in a dim, bleak soi, Pong Lee is not in the most auspicious of locations. And yet, Pong Lee has stood the test of time thanks to a wealth of delicious Cantonese dishes that won’t break the bank. On our previous visit, the mature owner told us that she wished Pong Lee could see a younger crowd grace her establishment because, after all, prices are reasonable and the eatery is within walking distance from the popular jazz bar, Saxophone. No such luck. The dining room is still the best-kept secret of gray-haired regulars, some of which have eaten here for decades. They don’t mind the worn tables or the view of a construction site. Dishes hover around B100-200, with shark fin soup as the most expensive item. If you are overwhelmed by choices, just stick to the recommended items marked with red stars. The servers, who match the furniture in age, have a diligence that belies their years. Their pampering extends to bringing you magazines to read while waiting for your order. Except for the thick and chewy deep-fried spring rolls, the hot hors d’oeuvres plate—deep-fried spring rolls, stir-fried fish maw with egg, sweet and sour shrimps, ha geun (deep-fried shrimp rolls) and 1,000-year eggs— is a good way to get an overview of Pong Lee’s appetizers. Ped ron is the must-try recipe, painstakingly prepared by boiling a whole duck, then sun-drying and deep-frying it until the skin is crisp and the meat falls off the bones. The kitchen is not quite as consistent with its steamed seabass, which once came to us overcooked, its texture a bit tough. If you want to end the meal Chinese-style, with carb-loaded dishes, skip the oily stir-fried Hokien noodles (with ham strips and shredded pork) and opt instead for the fried rice with crab meat. Corkage: B50 for wine, free for spirits.