82 in front of Trok Fraser & Neave, Mahanakorn Rd., 02-236-3015, 02-633-0089
Open for over two decades, Reun Mai is an unassuming restaurant, which surpasses just about everyone’s expectations by turning out food that’s both comforting and delicious. Hidden in plain sight, this neighborhood favorite is usually overlooked by non-regulars who drive past the two-story wooden house on the way to the desperately popular Je-Ngor restaurant. Inside it’s pretty eclectic: faded photos and antlers dominate the wood panel walls, grandpa fans swirl overhead marble-top tables, while the out-of-place giant TV screen keeps you (and the servers) company during your meal. No one pays attention to the menu here since the majority of the customers are families of regulars who already know what to order. For the rest of us, stick to the “must-order” menu, which lists a dozen or so dishes with star ratings, or simply ask the enthusiastic white-bearded grandpa owner. It’s better to check with your server first as the menu is not always up to date. Don’t go in expecting your typical big plates of greasy Thai-Chinese fare either, as portions are relatively small and the food is kinder to your cholesterol level. The kitchen does a great job with meat. The braised beef shank is flavorful and tender, but a bit expensive considering for just eight slices. Also delicious is the braised beef hot pot, which comes with a wonderfully savory broth. But our favorite is the muu sam chan ob phak heng, strips of fatty belly pork served on a bed of veggie stew. If you prefer sea creatures then the addictive stir-fried shrimps with chili is a reliable choice. The kitchen might deliver few surprises and some items are a bit overpriced, but for its friendly and fast service and dependably delicious food, Ruen Mai deserves big applause. A casual, home style restaurant where, somehow, you always seem to end up with the right meal. No corkage charge.