Rot Dee Det

Rot Dee Det is one of those long-standing institutions that gets very busy for lunch and dinner by managing to attract a wide cross-section of Thai society, from big-hair aunties with grandchildren in tow to couples grabbing a quick bite mid-shopping spree. It’s as low-key as it gets: plastic plates, small stools, no air-con, white tiles, stainless steel trays of prepared food and a big noodle stand. And, while prices hover around B35, the tiny portions are usually finished in three to four spoonfuls. So why the longevity and popularity? One word: umami, a basic taste (like salty, sweet or bitter) that you’ll find in meat stock, fish sauce or Parmesan (and MSG, although we’re hoping that’s not the case here). Rot Dee Det brings out the umami like no one else. Their beef noodles come with a dense soup bursting with a meaty flavor, but also with a serious dose of salt. There’s something thrilling about the first couple of bites, but you quickly realize why the portions are this small—or why they put such generous heaps of coriander on it all. Even white meat like the khao rard na gai (chicken on rice, B35) offers a full, fatty sauce with savory chunks of meat. It’s a bit more balanced than its beef counterparts (the pleasantly chewy braised beef or the fatty stew) and one of our favorites here. We also like their rice dishes in the big trays, by the far-end of the restaurant. Their tastes are noticeably crisper and more distinct than what you’ll find in the best-selling stews and noodles. We recommend you get something spicy to balance out the other dishes, but the tasty moo wan (sweet pork, B35) is a must-try. Even if it’s a tad monotone, Rot Dee Det’s food certainly has character and integrity. Definitely worth a try when you’re in Siam Square, an area which now offers little else than soulless food chains.