Among the hip clubs and expensive eateries, Sabaijai Kebtawan is the poor man’s entertainment complex, with restaurant, karaoke and a decent cover band under the same thatched roof, open to the street on one side and a parking lot on the other. But the clientele is diverse, ranging from families to large groups of dek naew and Japanese couples. The kitchen, which does a combination of Isaan treats, stir-fries and variations of tubtim and pla chon, offers good food at great prices, with even a few homeruns. The shrimp in the red curry and sataw stir-fry is huge and juicy, and we like the bitter bite of the fresh sataw, even if the dish is overpowered by the thick, curry-like gravy. The kai yang (grilled chicken, B70 for half) is generous and juicy, the sweet, crispy fried shallot topping is nice, as is the slightly sour brightness of their nam chim jeo. It’s a shame then that it can sometimes arrive cold. Hot or cold, the tom yam kai on the other hand is little more than a crowded, murky sour broth. What’s really impressive about Sabaijai Kebtawan, though, is their consistently expert handling of seafood. At many cheap venues, the seafood is invariably overcooked with a rubbery texture that’s masked by strong sauces and seasonings. But not here. The seafood in the yam woon sen, for instance, just demonstrates a light touch and perfect timing in the kitchen. The shrimp are lovely and orange, but the flesh is still translucent, yielding nicely under the teeth. The same goes for the squid. The other technique they have down is deep-frying. Their tubtim tod pao is cooked just right: crispy on the outside with soft, white flesh on the inside. The accompanying nam chim, which is just chopped chillies, lime juice and a dash of fish sauce, is delicious without overshadowing the lovely fish. The place is often packed, even late in the evening on a Sunday, so the service is far from fawning, but you never have to look around too long before someone pleasantly attends to you. With the full house, the music and the solid food, Sundays, in fact, might be a great time to visit this little gem, when you’re not quite ready to face the somber reality of Monday just yet.
