It’s fairly bold of the Sheraton to roll out a pan-Southeast-Asian restaurant that trumpets not some kind of specific geographic authenticity, but rather creativity, fresh produce and a spicy kick. It’s also smart positioning: the food is mildly exotic for locals, suitably local for tourists. Still, the kitchen’s inconsistencies would soon spoil the picture irrevocably were it not for the Chao Phraya. Apart from the five-star views (make sure you’re seated outside as a stupid frosting on the bay windows makes the exterior all but invisible from the air-con dining room), you can expect a couple of pleasant surprises, such as the Bali bouillabaisse. Served piping hot, its rich texture and superb flavor show just how much good fish goes into its preparation, while a dash of chili oil and some fried garlic revamp the classic French recipe. Another simply great appetizer is the marinated, pan-fried scallops and shrimp, which are coated in an addictive lime and chili paste (the namesake sambal). Served with a well-seasoned salad with chunks of avocado, this is another East-meets-West success. (Their fall-off-the bone, melt-in-your-mouth ribs with a spicy BBQ sauce are too.) But other dishes can be dull, even greasy, like the ubiquitous slices of taro and pumpkin served as both amuse-bouche and sides or the turmeric fried rice and corn cakes with fried basil leaves. Served with the smoked trevally fish, they are far from rescued by the critter’s floury, dry flesh. Prices being on par with most riverside hotels (grilled seafood is B650-780 with a choice of sides), the disappointment is all the greater. Take the B420 chocolate mousse; it’s priced like it’s Valrhona but tastes like cheap chocolate milk for kids. So, yes, Sambal can tickle your taste buds and is one of the rare places on the Chao Phraya with a chill, modern lounge vibe (downtempo soundtrack, token Asian artifacts, a nice tree and contemporary design with plenty of wicker and bamboo), but there’s still plenty to improve upon within that vast, immaculate, open kitchen.
Sambal- Sambal
