If you’re into healthy Japanese cooking, you’ll appreciate what Samurai has to offer. But if taste is your priority (the strong flavors that we Thais prefer, in particular), Samurai is a hit-or-miss affair. According to a note on the menu, when chef-owner Naofumi Sato first came to town, he was horrified by the prevalent use of MSG and artificial food coloring in his native cuisine. Samurai exists to prove that it’s not necessary to resort to such fast-food approaches—with only partial success. The setting itself is inviting, with minimalist decor and soft music conducive to a laid-back evening. The downstairs is designed with lovebirds in mind, filled as it is solely with tables for two, some of which even seat you on the same side of the table as your date. The service is friendly and helpful, and the efficient kitchen delivers the food pretty fast even on a bustling night. However, when it comes to food, Samurai is inconsistent. Though the menu is simple and to the point, consisting of a small selection of sashimi, sushi, donburi, and noodles, there are still a number of bland, uninspiring dishes. A great flop on our recent visit was tetsuyaki yakiniku kimchi don (rice topped with kimchi beef and raw egg), which was small and almost tasteless, despite the Korean influences. Hovering somewhere between OK and good was the kaminabe: seafood and veggies bubbling away in a paper pot at the table. While we loved the light, soy sauce-based stock and sweet veggies, the seafood was a letdown—the shrimp weren’t fresh and the clams were tiny. However, that aside, there are a lot of nice finds at Samurai, such as salmon sashimi salad tossed in a tangy Japanese-style dressing and sashimi moriawase that offered chunky slices of raw tuna, salmon, yellowtail and grilled eel. To match its fresh sashimi, Samurai provides fresh wasabi that is grated on the spot with sharkskin. Desserts are also good, with daifuku served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream among our favorites. Refills of green tea are not free, but it’s so fresh and green that you can actually taste the leaves. Servings are small, but the health-conscious Siam Square customers who fill the place don’t seem to mind. Even the set menus (Mon-Fri 11:30am-6pm) are relatively small by Bangkok standards. All in all, the restaurant is just a middle-ranked samurai, not a mighty warrior.
