Loosely translated as “very good,” Sanyod definitely lives up to its name. This long-standing eatery has stood the test of time and taste and become an institution for its loyal patrons. Originally, Sanyod was a small shop sitting at the corner of Soi Charasvieng. As it gained more fans, it moved to its present spot in the middle of the soi, then expanded across the road into the larger, more modern digs equipped with chilly air-con. The atmosphere is typical of a Chinese restaurant: Chinese paintings in oversized frames, big golden vases and round tables occupied by noisy Thai-Chinese families. The glossy menu, written in Thai, English and Chinese, features colorful photographs of clichéd Chinese fare like “dry” noodles with roast duck and wonton soup. But the 60-year-old shop manages to execute these seemingly uninteresting classics with unwavering competence. The easiest way to order here is to follow the recommendations listed on the menu. Succulent and tender with just the right amount of fat, the red barbecue pork and crispy moo krob are our favorites. Though we could do with crispier skin, the roasted duck, too, is delicious. The kitchen also does a good job with fish. The pla raad prik is crunchy deep-fried fish fillets simmered in mildly hot sauce with sweet overtones. If you prefer something light (or at least lighter), try the braised bamboo piths soup, which arrives piping hot in a big bowl, with a subtle herbal taste, or crisp stir-fried kai-lan (Chinese broccoli) with oyster sauce. A visit isn’t complete without sampling Sanyod’s justifiably renowned raadna, with its slightly charred noodles and succulent chunks of marinated beef. If there’s one “weakness,” it might be the service, which can be a bit too casual: during slow times, the staff like to gather behind the counter, while in peak hours, they might bring you a big plate of moo krob instead of the small one you ordered. (At least they err on the right side.) So put on your loose pants, forget calorie counting and enjoy an oily, rich and yummy binge.