It’s possible to order a la carte at Sekitei, but why would you? The whole point of the place is the good-value buffet. Falling somewhere between street side muu krata and posh hotel buffets, here you can stuff yourself silly full of succulent meat—to the point that you won’t even notice, or at least care about, the drab surroundings. In an otherwise quiet and sullen floor in the Charn Issara Tower, Sekitei bustles with activity night after night. If you arrive after 8pm, the building’s closing time, you have to stroll past the dim parking lot and dead lobby, then walk down the escalator. Expect a long queue, but thankfully there are rice crackers and iced tea available in the waiting area to stave off your hunger momentarily. Inside, the atmosphere is typical of barbecue restaurants: smoky, greasy and cacophonous. It’s a tiny joint with only six tables and two private rooms, and the ventilation is poor (two table fans do all the work), so prepare to smell like your D-I-Y meal by the time you’re done. The tableware consists of a mix of disposable chopsticks, ceramic plates and cheap plastic spoons. But the food more than makes up for the shabby setting. Choose your tabletop cooking method: yakiniku or shabu shabu, entitling you to all the beef, pork, chicken, squid, fish, shrimp and salmon you can fit in your stomach. You also get unlimited miso soup, a variety of banchan (Korean veggie side dishes like kimchi and bean sprouts seasoned with sesame oil), garlic rice and chawanmushi (steamed egg custard). It’s not just about quantity here; Sekitei offers quality ingredients. The shrimp are plump and sweet, the squid is firm and salmon, while not sashimi-fresh, is still good. And you can choose between two cuts of beef: the lean and tender karubi (beef short ribs) and the marbled rosu (sirloin). If the dipping sauce is too bland for you, use the accompanying small jars of chopped garlic, chili, chili paste and slices of lemon. Sekitei’s waitstaff is also friendly and attentive, although overworked during peak hours. It might take some 20 minutes for your egg custard or garlic rice to come, but when it finally arrives, it is accompanied by a big smile. It’s no wonder this humble eatery packs in the crowds nightly. Be warned: always book in advance and show up on time or your table will be given away.