Good fish and chips are a bit of a holy grail in this town. There are many places serving this classic “British” treat, from trendy bistro joints to slightly seedy hole in the walls, but only a handful that come close to offering a great fish supper. Thankfully, Snapper is a welcome addition to that elite group, albeit one that takes it inspiration from New Zealand rather than the UK. That’s a good thing in our book. From the light and airy, sea shack vibe of this small shop house to the intriguing choice of Southern Ocean fish, Snapper is a pleasant change from the norm. Clearly a lot of thought has gone into the details, too: newspaper-lined baskets, malt vinegar, and a rich and zesty homemade tomato sauce. Their garlic aioli and tartare sauces (also homemade) that you can pick to accompany your fish are both delicious, light but full of flavor and very addictive, while their mushy peas with mint are a triumph. But Snapper really wins big with its fish, which come in a growing choice of options from the meaty, strong-flavored Tarakihi (B170) to the milder, flaky Southern King Fish (B160)—a diversity you won’t find on other menus. In fact, the fish is so good we prefer to just opt for the pan-fried version, rather than the breaded or crumbed choices. The batter used here is very good—light, crisp and not too greasy—but fans of crunchier, thicker batters might be disappointed. You may also feel that the prices are a little bit high, especially when you consider that you have to add in standard or thick cut chips (B70-B100) and that this is food served in baskets on what really are glorified park benches. But this is more than fast food. Service is efficient and well informed, if a bit in your face at times; it might not be to everyone’s tastes but we’ll take that over the normal grunts and vacant stares. And that’s the thing with Snapper: fine dining it isn’t, but we’d much rather come here than nearly any other fish and chip shop in town.
