Indulging in good somtam and kai yang doesn’t always have to mean sitting on tatty plastic chairs as the heat beats down on your head. Venture outside of the roadside stalls and you can find flavorful Isaan eateries, like Somtam Bangkok, that provide both essential shade and a rather pleasant atmosphere without breaking the bank. A 10-minute walk from BTS Ari, this two-story house turned neighborhood restaurant still gives off a classic vibe—wooden tables coupled with plastic chairs, a mish-mash of decor pieces and the obligatory ice cream fridge. Pick from the secluded backyard or the slightly livelier front patio where the revving of motorcycles vies with karaoke staples. The food is equally hit and miss but always affordable. Considering the name, you would expect the somtam to be spectacular, when really, we’ve had it just as good elsewhere. They do have plenty of variety; get it with salty egg, crab or with crispy fish. Complement the salad with an order of kai yang: great texture but we’ve had better-tasting meat. It does, however, come with a tasty sweet and sour tamarind sauce. Don’t bother with the moo ping; the bland chunks of fatty pork can’t compete with P’Uan’s, in Silom. Instead, opt for the larb moo thawd, deep-fried minced pork salad, prepared like miniature fish cakes. What really hits the spot is the saikrok Isaan (Isaan sausage). These stubby pieces of slightly sour, slightly salty delight come served BBQ style—lined up one after another on thin wooden sticks. If you’re ever in doubt, just ask any of the friendly waiters to make a recommendation. They’re quick to respond and are even quicker to bring the food. Once you’ve discovered your favorites, it’s certainly worth a return visit. No corkage charge.
