Good Greek food is a rarity in Bangkok. Despite plenty of restaurants serving up tastes of its Mediterranean neighbors, the land of Zorba is under represented. Thus, Souvlaki’s very existence is admirable. The problem seems to be that the amiable Greek owner can’t make up his mind. Is it a proper Greek restaurant or just a takeaway joint? This confusion is clear in the décor. Downstairs, the slow spinning kebabs scream fast food while the top two floors try to recreate a Greek taverna with whitewashed walls, paintings of the islands and a backing track of Laïká-heavy folk songs. Then there are the skimpy-shorts and tight tees worn by the friendly, if slightly clueless, waitresses—don’t be surprised if your main comes with your starter. The same confusion applies to the food; they seem unsure whether to go full Greek or tone things down. The ouzopoilikia is case in point. Described as a mixed mezedes platter for two, featuring vine leaves, meatballs and kalamata olives, we were surprised to find it included just one olive, Thai sausage and French fries. Still, you can’t argue with the size of the portion, the vine leaves were zesty and moist and the salad crisp and fresh. The three accompanying dips—taramosalata (cod roe, potato, and lemon juice), melitzanosalata (eggplant and garlic) and tirokafteri (a spicy mix of feta cheese, red peppers and garlic) are all excellent, if a little small. For mains, you have a choice: the inexpensive souvlaki, (grilled meats wrapped in pita) or pricier mains like moussaka. The souvlaki are OK but not quite enough to fill you up. The pork giro we had last time was also a touch fatty but was perfectly chargrilled. The lamb meatballs, or Soutzoukakia Smyrneika, are aromatic and come with a rich and peppery tomato sauce, but were a little dry. The desserts are equally authentic but expensive. If you like Greek food, then Souvlaki is worth a visit, but choose wisely and keep your expectations down at the fast food level. Corkage B200.
