French, Italian, Chinese, Indian. All national cuisines that are well served in this city, but despite increasing popularity globally, it seems the flavors of Spain have struggled to make a mark on Bangkok’s food map. In fact, we could count the places serving traditional tapas on one hand. Which is why we welcome the arrival of Spanish on 4, bringing to the diners of Silom the small Spanish plates that have already proved such a hit over at Tapas Café on Sukhumvit 11. Good tapas should be simple, affordable and comforting, and Spanish on 4 certainly ticks all those boxes. Is it outstanding? No, but then it does get extra marks for offering something different. There’s definitely a market for it as well, judging by the crowds flocking to this light and airy eatery, even during weekday lunch times. The key to their success is in providing an easy (but authentic) introduction to Spanish food. The majority of the menu sticks to tried and tested classics, like the patatas bravas (fried potatoes with garlic mayonnaise and a spicy tomato sauce) or the juicy gambas al ajillo (garlic shrimps). The choice of cured meats also mirrors its sister restaurant, from the wonderfully flavored, if pricy, jamon Iberico “pata negra” to the affordable, if a little mild, chorizo picante (pork paprika sausage). In fact, our biggest complaint would be that the main menu can sometimes seem a little pedestrian, especially if you are a repeat customer. They’ve looked to tackle that, though, by introducing a list of chef recommendations that changes weekly and features dishes like the soft, almost creamy mollejas cordero salteadeas con hortalizas (crispy lamb in sweet crumbs with vegetables). These special dishes might not always be a complete success. For example, we would prefer more fish in our cod, spinach and raisin croquettes, but we can also guarantee you won’t find dishes like this anywhere else in town. Add in decent, efficient service and some very affordable lunch, happy hour and sangria deals, and it’s easy to see why Spanish on 4 is proving such a hot spot for diners looking for something a little different. Corkage B400.
