There are a growing number of tapas places in Bangkok as the world continues its love affair with Spanish food. Few have the authentically gritty edge of a real tapas joint, a simple place where you come to snack and drink and catch up on news. On that front, though, Taburete comes close.
Tucked in the basement of the Japanese Terminal Mall next to Emporium, this narrow space has a distinctly urban feel, helped by the utilitarian decor of high stools, thin breakfast bar-style tables, a semi-open kitchen and a view of the busy road. There’s a decent if pricey booze menu, too: sangria, a good choice of wines by the glass and Spanish beers including Estella Damm, craft beer Sagra Cerveza (B250) and on our last visit Inedit (B570 for a 75cl glass).
Unfortunately, the food is a let down. Even something as simple as the patatas bravas (fried potatoes with spicy tomato sauce and mayonnaise, B135) is underwhelming, due to slightly floury potatoes and a rather nondescript tomato sauce. This is also the case with the bacalao al alioli con judias (baked cod with mayonnaise and beans, B225), which sounds (and looks) delicious but just tastes mushy and watery, as if overcooked. The gambas al ajillo (prawns with garlic, B350), a true tapas standard, are almost inedible. The prawns are big and meaty but their oddly chemical taste overpowers the insipid garlic sauce they sit in.
It’s not all a disaster, though, the homemade croquets casera (chicken croquettes, B165) are a little better, the breadcrumb coating crisp even if the chicken mousse-style filling could do with more seasoning. The milhojas de verduras con queso de cabra gratinado (grilled vegetables with tomato sauce topped with goats cheese, B210) was our personal favorite last time, the tart goat cheese working well with the soft but fresh vegetables, though the spicy sauce does unbalance the dish slightly.
Truth is we’d be more forgiving if the prices weren’t so steep. We appreciate that many of the ingredients need to be imported but B800 for a plate of cold cuts is looking at hotel prices. It’s a real shame; there’s clearly a passion and commitment behind this place— the owners just got back from a ten-day trip to Spain for ideas—but like the current Spanish football team, while the heart is willing, the end result is a little off target.
