The name raises hopes of stunning views over the Chao Phraya, but while you can actually spot the Rama 8 Bridge from their second floor terrace, there’s no water to be seen. Still, the tropical theme, inviting garden and feature wall with its own cascading water do offer a pleasant atmosphere. Too bad the menu is so uninspired and, despite pleasing presentation, the food so pedestrian. Signature dishes have names ending with “take a view,” such as the pla ka pong Take a View (seabass with herb dressing, B280). The herbs on the top of the fried fish make for a rather grand-looking dish, but there’s nothing remarkable about the taste. The dressing is much like miang kam (diced lime, shallots, peanuts and sweet dried pork) basking in a sweet (and slightly sour) dressing. The phla gung grob sa mun prai (fried prawns with herbs, B180) is another looker with its heaps of fried shallots, but also another disappointment. While the sweet chili paste (nam prik pao) is delicious, it’s a poor match for deep-fried prawns covered in batter. The prawn’s shells had not even been taken off on our last visit. The tom yam gung with young coconut meat (B200) was delicious but, again, it was so much work peeling the shells off the prawns, sometimes a sign that the little critters are not at their freshest. And one last thing: portions can be on the small side. If you’re going to offer a B60 bowl of rice too share, it should be enough for four, not two. Nor should a B150 lab moo thod be so miserly. Without being a complete disaster, and despite a pleasant atmosphere, there’s definitely better in the neighborhood.
